This time of year, a good brunch goes a long way. There's the post-holiday-gift-shopping brunch. The visiting-with-relatives brunch. And of course, the brunch with out-of-town friends, during which way too many mimosas are consumed. Whatever the reason for brunching, a handful of restaurants have new options on the table.
In River North, Red Violet is serving up a taste of the Far East. Billing itself as a "modern Chinese" restaurant, it opened in February on a restaurant-heavy stretch of Hubbard Street. Maybe it was the stuck-in-2003 martini list or the interpretation that "modern Chinese" meant "put caviar or truffle oil on everything," but it just wasn't drawing the same crowds as other hot spots on the block. A summer menu revamp from consulting chef Gene Kato (Japonais) and a $20 prix-fixe brunch for two added last month are recent attempts to recruit regulars.
In Wicker Park, chef Mark Steuer is serving southern comforts in the form of Lowcountry cuisine at Carriage House. His steamy she-crab soup proved the perfect rainy day warm-up when the restaurant opened for dinner service in September, so I was curious to see if his brand-new brunch would have the same effect. I checked out both spots to see which is worth your brunch bucks.
Red Violet
121 W. Hubbard St. 312-828-0222
Brunch times: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday-Sunday
Rating: 2.5 (out of 4) Take it or leave it
Sights: Once you size up what's included on the $20 brunch-for-two menu, it's tough to give the a la carte menu a second look. The price includes a little mixed green salad, pot stickers, taro fries and bamboo steamer of dim sum. And that's not $20 per person-I'm talking about $20 total. The zesty citrus-carrot dressing on the salad and crispy pot stickers stuffed with beef and pork were definitely the highlight for me. On the other hand, taro root doesn't make for the best fries (though the black garlic-miso dipping sauce on the side is borderline addictive) and, with the exception of the shrimp shu mai, the dim sum were somewhat forgettable.
Sounds: The occasional swish of the kitchen door and the conversation at our own table. This is a huge restaurant with not many people in it. Walking through the ghost town that is the basement lounge to get to the restroom was especially eerie.
Sips: One lychee mimosa or cucumber bloody mary per person is included in this prix-fixe deal. Neither are revelatory, but considering two cocktails alone typically would run you $20 in this part of town, the value is impressive.
Bottom line: There's no denying that this is a crazy good deal. If a bustling scene is what you enjoy about brunch, you won't find that here; however, if there isn't much left in your wallet after a day of Mag Mile holiday shopping, it'll do the job.
***
Carriage House
1700 W. Division St. 773-384-9700
Brunch times: 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturday-Sunday
Rating: 3 (out of 4) Off to a good start
Sights: The number of orders of beignets coming through the kitchen pass was all the encouragement I needed to add an order ($8) to my meal. These piping-hot beauties arrive cloaked in powdered sugar with a side of coffee froth-topped fudge for dunking-kind of like dipping them in your coffee mug, but way better. I earned an embarrassed look from my date as I scattered sugar all over the tabletop-and onto the scarf draped around my neck for good measure. On the savory side, chef Mark Steuer's shrimp and grits ($14) weren't just lick-the-plate good, but rather steal-the-plate-back-from-my-date good. I'm still thinking about how the supremely creamy grits, plump shrimp and bits of smoky tasso ham all came together to add up to one of the best dishes I've had all year. I can't say the same for the smoked grouper ($12), which devolved into an unsightly mess of wet greens, juicy grapefruit and horseradish vinaigrette soaking the at-first crispy fried fish.
Sounds: The icy swish of beverage director Michael Simon shaking cocktails at the bar, the chatter of 20-somethings catching up with their parents over skillets of cornbread ($7) and the hushed voices of 30-somethings appeasing their highchair-perched kiddos in between bites of fried chicken and malted waffle ($11).
Sips: Most tables were filled with Carriage House's signature bloody marys ($8) or mimosas, the latter made with the champagne of beers (that's Miller High Life) instead of bubbly, plus bourbon for an extra kick ($9). The choice is yours, but I think you're missing out if you don't try the Delicious Sour ($9), a peachy, apple-y cocktail with a layer of frothy egg white lingering on top.
Bottom line: Carriage House's classy but casual white-washed dining room and Steuer's comforting brunch fare would please friends and family alike. Soul-warming dishes feel especially appropriate in the winter, but the prospect of brunch on the front patio already has me pretty psyched for spring.
***
MORE NEW BRUNCHES
Leopold
1450 W. Chicago Ave. 312-348-1028
Eat: Biscuits and duck confit gravy ($12), poutine with fried eggs and pickled peppers ($10)
Drink: Spicy bloody marys with pepper vodka from Seattle craft distillery Oola ($10), coffee from local roastery Big Shoulders ($3-$6)
Brunch times: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday
Slurping Turtle
116 W. Hubbard St. 312-464-0466
Eat: Design-your-own bento boxes with sashimi, edamame, tempura and grilled meats ($16-$20)
Drink: Pickle- and olive-garnished bloody marys or flutes of champagne, kir royales or mimosas (all $10)
Brunch times: 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sunday
GT Fish & Oyster
531 N. Wells St. 312-929-3501
Eat: Bagel with house-cured lox ($13), crab Benedict ($14), biscuits with lobster gravy ($15)
Drink: Bourbon bloody marys with pickled quail egg ($11), white peach bellinis ($9), La Colombe coffee ($3.50-$5)
Brunch times: 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturday-Sunday
Tesori
65 E. Adams St. 312-786-9911
Eat: Prosciutto and brie eggs Benedict ($15), potato pancake with apple-horseradish relish ($14)
Drink: Prosecco cocktails such as the ginger- and apple-flavored Mele Spritz or the Rosa with rose water and elderflower liqueur
Brunch times: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday-Sunday
Troquet
1834 W. Montrose Ave. 773-334-5664
Eat: Cinnamon-banana-caramel French toast ($8), vegetarian croque madame with brie, onion and spinach ($8)
Drink: Mimosas made with fresh-squeezed OJ and house-made bloody marys ($5)
Brunch times: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday-Sunday
>>More brunch buzz
Dragon Ranch in River North has expanded its Sunday brunch to Saturday Red Door in Bucktown offers a $22 brunch entree-bottomless mimosas combo through February People in Wicker Park recently launched a new brunch menu.
Reporters visit restaurants unannounced and meals are paid for by RedEye.